Travel guide

Kazbegi day trip from Tbilisi

Kazbegi is the easiest way to see the high Caucasus from Tbilisi: about three hours north on the Georgian Military Highway, with Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,170 m under Mount Kazbek at the end of it. This is the route I drive, stop by stop, with the timing and the things I tell guests before we leave.

By Jimmy Malania, licensed Georgian guide since 2011 · Updated

  • About 3 h each way by car
  • Highest point 2,379 m (Jvari Pass)
  • Best May to October, runs all year
Two travellers looking down at Stepantsminda and the Kazbegi mountains
Traveller in a sun hat looking across the valley to the Caucasus peaks, Kazbegi

The route, stop by stop

The road north from Tbilisi is the Georgian Military Highway, the old road over the Caucasus. On a day trip we drive it both ways, so I plan some stops for the way up and keep the rest for the way back.

  • Ananuri Fortress. A fortress with two churches above the Zhinvali Reservoir, on the Aragvi River. It's about an hour from Tbilisi, a good first stretch of the legs.
  • Pasanauri. A village known for its khinkali, and lunch on the day trip: khinkali here are included. It's usually too early on the way up, so I often stop here on the way back.
  • Gudauri. Just past the resort is the Gudauri viewpoint with the Friendship Monument, looking out over the valleys of the Greater Caucasus.
  • Jvari Pass, 2,379 m. The highest point of the day. In spring there can still be snow beside the road.
  • Stepantsminda. The town under Mount Kazbek, which most people simply call Kazbegi.
  • Gveleti waterfall. A short walk up a side canyon to the waterfall.
  • Dariali gorge. Past Stepantsminda the valley closes into a narrow rock gorge.
  • Gergeti Trinity Church, 2,170 m. On the ridge above Stepantsminda, with Mount Kazbek behind it on a clear day. Our Wrangler drives you up. Walking up takes most people about an hour and a half.

How long it takes

Count on about 3 hours each way between Tbilisi and Kazbegi without stops. With the stops above, the day trip is a full day, and most of it is on the road. I agree the pickup time with you when I confirm the booking, and we aim to be back in Tbilisi in the evening.

In winter the Military Highway can close for a while after heavy snow. I watch the forecast the day before and we adjust the plan, or the date, if we have to.

If six hours in a car in one day sounds like too much, stay a night. The 2-day trip adds the Truso Valley, with its mineral springs and abandoned villages, and the 4-day trip goes up to Juta under the Chaukhi peaks. All the walks, with distances and times, are on the Kazbegi hiking page.

Two travellers on a viewpoint path above a green valley, Kazbegi

What to wear and bring

Kazbegi is much higher than Tbilisi and usually a lot colder, even in summer. The weather can turn within an hour, even in July. This is what I ask guests to bring:

  • Comfortable walking shoes. The paths at Gergeti are uneven.
  • A warm jacket, even if Tbilisi is hot when we leave.
  • Sunglasses and sun protection: the sun is strong up there.
  • A water bottle.

Gergeti and Ananuri are working churches. Women cover their hair and wear a skirt, and men wear long trousers. There are usually wraps at the door, but a scarf in your bag makes it easy.

When to go

The best months are May to October. The valleys are green, the road is clear and you have the best chance of seeing Mount Kazbek without cloud. July and August are the busiest months at Gergeti, so on summer trips I try to get there before the middle of the day.

Day trips run all year. In winter the mountains are white, Gudauri is a ski resort, and the drive itself becomes part of the trip. Truso and Juta, on the longer trips, are best from June to October. For the rest of the country, month by month, see the best time to visit Georgia.

Where to eat

On the day trip, lunch is included: khinkali in Pasanauri, a village known for them. Ask about khabizgina too, the local cheese-and-potato bread, and mkhlovani, bread baked with wild mountain greens.

If you're hungry earlier or later, just tell me. I know places along the whole road, and we stop wherever suits you.

Private tour or marshrutka?

You can get to Kazbegi on your own. Marshrutkas, the shared minibuses, run from Didube station in Tbilisi to Stepantsminda. They are cheap, but they go straight there: no Ananuri, no viewpoints, and you still need a ride up to Gergeti.

On a private day trip you have your own 4x4 and your own licensed Georgian guide, not just a driver. I pick you up at your Tbilisi hotel or the airport, we stop where you want, and I bring you back the same evening. The price for your group is on the tour page.

Already seen Kazbegi? The road east of it leads to Khevsureti: the Abudelauri lakes, Shatili and Mutso, on a 3-day private tour.

Questions

  • How long is a Kazbegi day trip from Tbilisi?

    About 3 hours of driving each way. With stops at Ananuri, Gudauri, the Gveleti waterfall, the Dariali gorge and Gergeti Trinity Church, it is a full day, and you are back in Tbilisi in the evening.
  • Can I visit Kazbegi in winter?

    Yes. The day trip runs all year. After heavy snow the Military Highway can close for a while, so we watch the forecast and adjust the plan or the date if needed.
  • Do I need a 4x4?

    Some mountain roads, like the one up to Gergeti, need a 4x4. Every private Kazbegi trip is in a 4x4, so you never have to change cars.
  • Is one day enough for Kazbegi?

    It is enough for Ananuri, the Military Highway, the Gveleti waterfall, the Dariali gorge and Gergeti Trinity Church. For the Truso Valley or the Chaukhi peaks, stay one to three nights.
  • Is lunch included?

    Yes, on the day trip: khinkali in Pasanauri. Water and snacks in the car are included too.

Private tours to Kazbegi and beyond

Kazbegi Private Mountain Tour: Mtskheta-Mtianeti, Georgia

Kazbegi Private Mountain Tour

A day trip from Tbilisi to Kazbegi on the Georgian Military Highway, in a private 4x4 with your own guide. About three hours of driving each way.

Day trip 2–4 guestsEasy
1 day
Khevsureti Private Mountain Tour: Mtskheta-Mtianeti, Georgia

Khevsureti Private Mountain Tour

Three days in Khevsureti with a private 4x4 and guide, and two nights in the mountain village of Roshka.

3 days / 2 nights 2–4 guestsModerate

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